A weekly Column by Chef Daniel Orr

Daniel Orr is Executive Chef at Kitchen Stadium, Santorini Restaurant, Famiglia and the Tapas Lounge and Rum Bar at CuisinArt Resort & Spa and is working on “A Chef’s Diet” Cookbook and Cooking in Paradise.

Tofu
The scary white stuff

Chef Daniel Orr

So plain, so bland, so misunderstood. The scorned stepsister in the world of protein, but as is often the case, when she is dressed up and perfumed, her porcelain jiggle can be transformed into something absolutely breathtaking.

Tofu is made of soybeans - small legumes or beans, an excellent source of vegetable protein and calcium. They grew in endless fields that surrounded my Indiana boyhood, but we never thought of them as food - who’d ‘a think that soy is one of the most important food sources in the world!

Soybeans are used to make soy sauce and tofu (beancurd), soymilk, and soy yogurt. Fresh soybeans are called edamame, a popular snack food in sushi restaurants. Tofu is made by soaking the ground beans, then adding water to make a purée, which is then strained and boiled to produce curd, almost like a cheese. The curd is drained, then packaged for market.

Regular intake of soy has proven to have many health protective effects, but even with all its benefits soy is still maligned. Americans find it one of the scariest of all foods. Just mention the word around any all-American male and he pales in fear.

Why are we so intimidated? Even my Chef de Cuisine Christopher, who is Filipino and whose mother tried to raise him on the stuff, squirms at the mention of tofu. It must be the texture. Americans can deal with the custard thing in a dessert flan or the newly trendy panna cotta, but not in our protein! Not for Sunday dinner! We want something we need a knife and a fork for; we want meat!

The benefits of soy are extensive. Tofu is a useful food for vegetarians; soymilk and soy yogurt are healthful alternatives for people who have an intolerance to dairy products. Soybeans are rich in the isoflavones genistein and diadzein, which have been shown to have protective effects against breast and prostate cancer. It is also a wonder food for women going through menopause because it contains a high amount of plant estrogens. In addition, soybeans are rich in potassium and have been shown to relieve high blood pressure. Several studies have revealed that soy protein eaten daily can decrease LDL cholesterol (low density lipoprotein or bad cholesterol).
It has also been suggested that the diadzein in soy may help decrease the leaching of calcium from bone and therefore reduce the risk of osteoporosis.

Although not fat-free, it is low in fat and high in protein, making it the perfect food for weightlifters. So, people, get over your fears and make room at your table for some tofu.

Through the years I’ve come up with ways to incorporate tofu in my pantry by making it more western. By turning it into a healthy dip, a cream cheese replacement, or a sandwich spread, it no longer seems foreign. Try diced firm tofu in a Caesar salad made with a tofu Caesar dressing, or barbecued tofu in a pita pocket sandwich. The uses are endless. I have also developed recipes that use its custard-like texture to advantage. I’ve created tofu “crème brûlée” that is guilt-free. Once you’ve welcomed tofu with open arms you can venture into ethnic markets and restaurants to see how it is used in other cuisines of the world and take that knowledge back to your kitchen and experiment. With a little imagination tofu can be a tasty, healthful food for you and your family.

Let’s not forget one of the most important reasons that tofu should be in your pantry: economics. Tofu is, pound for pound, the best deal in the market for a healthful protein to cook with. There are now many ways to work tofu into your diet, and once you become used to it you’ll never give it up.

It can truly be something wonderful. Tofu is like a sponge, absorbing whatever you mix with it, creating a truly tasty treat. Just remember our mantra: “Balance.”

Here is an “at-a-glance” guide to tofu:

Silken: try in sauces, vinaigrettes, dips, creams and as custard cubes in Asian broths.
Firm: “cream cheese” and as a thickener in dips and spreads.
Extra-Firm: dishes in which tofu is the center of attention. Firm tofu stands proud.
Smoked, Barbecued and Herbed: found in some high-end gourmet and health food stores. These are usually flavored, extra-firm varieties and great in sautés, pastas, stir-fries and tossed salads. Fresh vs. packaged: I often buy fresh tofu from tubs of water in Chinatown or in my Asian deli, but when using it I always cook it. Use pasteurized packaged tofu for your uncooked sauces and creams.

Note: Most firm or extra-firm tofu is better when some of the liquid is removed. To do this, turn a plate over on a small tray to catch the liquid. Place the tofu on the upturned plate and weight it with a second plate; let the tofu sit for 15 to 20 minutes, then drain it and continue with your recipe.

Triple Soy Pasta

Great served hot, warm or cold. Remember - recipes are guidelines, so be creative - use other herbs, spices or vegetables that you have on hand. Have fun and don’t be afraid of flavor!

In this dish, which is somewhere between a salad and more traditional pasta, I like to use a soy-base pasta, which has less gluten than its enriched wheat-based brother. It is easier on the digestive system and adds interest to the menu description. Spelt, rice and whole wheat pastas are also good choices. Most of these may be found through specialty purveyors or at health food stores. This is an energy dish that packs a protein punch, so it is great an hour or two before a workout or a run.

Serves 2 main course portions or 4 appetizer portions

Dressing:

1 tablespoon soy sauce (white soy is nice but mushroom or light soy also work well)
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon garlic (quantity ok? was typo)
1 pound soy pasta, cooked al dente
1 cup shelled sweet peas or edamame (fresh is best, but they may be found pre-shelled and frozen)
1 pound tofu, diced (I like silken but firm tofu adds a meatier, less custardy texture) (quantity ok? was typo)
1 cup shiitaki or other mushrooms, stems removed and sliced thin (quantity ok? was typo)
1 cup coriander or Italian parsley leaves, very roughly chopped (quantity ok? was typo) salt and pepper to taste

Mix the ingredients for the dressing in a small bowl and set aside.

Cook the pasta and drain; do not rinse. Add the peas, tofu, mushrooms, herbs, and dressing, and toss gently to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

I’d love to hear from you. I am collecting recipes and stories for future articles and books and would love to include your favorite family recipes and food memories from the kitchen, the garden or the sea. You can reach me at dorr@cuisinart.aior stop me on the road if you see the CuisinArt Chef Mobile.

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